Pen Tour

 
Today a bunch of international students took a bus tour around the peninsula. We went back to Capes Bay and then to see penguins (who knew they existed in Africa?!) and to the Cape of Good Hope. Couldn't have been on a more perfect day. Don't think I've ever seen more beautiful views.

Mzolis

Yesterday we took a minibus (these little vans that drive up and down the main street that people hop on and off as they like) to this place called Mzolis in one of the townships. We wait around outside for hours on plastic tables and chairs with no decor. It's really a scene and is full of all kinds of people, most of whom are South African. Then they bring out a huge pile of amazing meat in a ginormous pot. Sausage, beef, and chicken. You eat with your hands and there are no napkins in sight. Amazing.

dexter's and classes

Went to Dexter's house last night for a birthday party. When I went over there last, before Long Street, I met his housemates. Most of them were going to a nightclub called Tiger Tiger. My closest friend in my house, Anna, went out the same night to a club (along with almost every American abroad student here). The next morning over breakfast we were looking over pictures from the previous night. In them, was her friend, David, from home. I immediately realized David was one of the guys I met at Dexter's house as he was waiting for a cab. I love how small the world is, even on the other side of it! Plus, now I have someone to cab there and back with.

Anyway, his place is huge. It has courtyards everywhere with fountains, wooden floors, pseudo-Roman antiques, and a lot of character. The house right across the street has jacuzzis, chandelliers, and balconies, and the one next to that has a pool. My jealousy has definitely not faded. Everyone here has thankfully been super friendly; we're definitely all trying to make as many friends as possible, as quickly as possible. It's been great having a bit of comfort from home to ease that process.

Oh, and I think these are my classes, though they aren't finalized yet:
Gender, Sex, Religion
Developmental Psych
Clinical Psych
Film in Africa and South Africa

Classes usually meet 4 times a week, with smaller meeting sections called "tuts." This schedule also means that on Mondays and Thursdays I only have class from 10 to 1 and will have the afternoons to do whatever, which should be great.

muizenberg and pesto pasta

Went to Muizenburg, another beautiful beach yesterday. These are my friends Howie (who goes to WashU) and Laura (awesome girl living in a homestay). Train ride was gross, with men eyeing our bags the entire way. But once we got there we were set. Great waves came non-stop. You can barely catch your breath as they continuously crash over you. There was a shark alarm in the middle of swimming, but luckily I still am holding on to ten fingers and ten toes. I also saw a 13-year-old girl surfing, which gave me a good deal of inspiration for the future, though I’m sure I’m going to wimp out. Went to Knead, a restaurant right on the waterfront. Here's a picture of the best meal ever (mom, get ready to go there.) Very fresh ingredients. The way people think about time here is totally different though, thus the service everywhere has been horrible despite friendly dispositions. Nevertheless, I had two entrees (steak sandwich and an orange/lentil salad) and two beers for less than 20 dollars. Loving the exchange rate. Had some wonderfully delicious ice cream with generous helpings for another dollar. She just kept scooping with no end in sight.

Today was University of Cape Town (UCT) orientation. Everything here is super disorganized. I simultaneously need to plan: classes, volunteering, and clubs, but none of them have the times up, and somehow we’re expected to make it all work out and deal with tons of paperwork. In other words, it's been a breeding ground for anxiety headaches.

For those who know/care, I saw Dex (Park Slope friend since middle school who attends Emory but is on a separate program) for the first time! His house is way nicer, so I’ve become more than a little jealous. We went to Long Street again but to different bars/clubs. Really like being the minority. They keep talking about how race is super prevalent here. However, in a strange way I think about race less because it’s so diverse. Only 14% of the population is white and everything seems more integrated for the most part.

Also, our RA (resident advisor), Hunja, is amazing. He’s originally from Kenya and has the most joyous smile I've ever seen in my life. We ate pesto pasta with sautéed tomatoes and garlic and had a long conversation about religion and life. There’s a place, Ark, I want to maybe volunteer at (where I climbed trees with kids). However, it’s totally faith(AKA Christian)-based. When one of the men in charge of the program came to speak about the site, he discussed how it’s motivated by the desire to first and foremost help the spiritual needs of those in the community, which is done with the help of Jesus Christ. Though it has the most variety of things to do (it has a drug rehab center, a nursery, a school, etc.), as an existential atheist Jew, I think that can pose a variety of serious challenges. Still, I think it might be a really positive thing that would require a good deal of tolerance and compartmentalization. I just haven’t decided whether it’s worth the challenge yet.

concert in capes bay

We went to Capes Bay last night. Check out how beautiful it is! We saw an awesome band called Goldfish. Two guys alternated djing and playing instruments (sax, base, a weird electronic thing, beatboxing while playing the flute, and piano). They were insanely talented. I wish the sound on my camera was working, but I posted a short video anyway so you can see how great the vibe was and how close we were to the stage. The energy was off the walls. I have never really liked House music, but this was so exciting, and much easier to connect to because of the live instruments. I've checked out their website a bit, but it doesn't do them justice: goldfishlive.com. I had no idea it was possible to be that sweaty and hot. Everyone around us was dripping, their hair was plastered to their heads and all of the guys gathered their shirts around their necks. Beads of sweat went flying, but no one seemed to mind. We were all equally drenched.

settling in

We moved into the houses yesterday. I am living in what could be in MTV’s Real World. There are 9 others on my floor, 8 below, and on the same property but in a semi-connected building are another 12 (30 total, for those of you who can’t do math). So I’m optimistic about making some good friends. The neighborhood is super quiet and has a great location, and is really pretty. The room’s pretty small and I just have a single bed, but it’s pleasant.

Today I went grocery shopping for the first time. It feels nice to start to really settle in. Sat in Cocoa wah wah (the wonderful local coffee shop) and they are starting to recognize me. Talked to this guy, Braam, who was originally from Zimbabwe and is a political activist. He had come to speak to us about working with him, so he wasn't a total stranger. Had some interesting and informative talks about South African politics. He had me read part of a book by an 82-year-old friend of his, who is friends with the polygamist, ANC and South African President Zuma. Really inspirational. This guy was illiterate well into his adult years and worked himself up from apartheid-induced-poverty and no education to being in charge of the whole country. Still, Zuma is incredibly controversial. With a rape trials, multiple illegitimate children, and ignorant comments made about AIDS in a country ridden with the epidemic, it's hard to be supportive.

After I met the rest of the group for a great bbq, called bri or brie or brae or something (I can’t spell). Awesome food. Piled it on the plate. Helped myself to seconds and piled on more. Went swimming in a pool. Starting to develop a pretty decent tan. Also talked to this guy, Siya, that works on the program who was dj-ing and had the best taste in music (was playing Mos Def, Common, RJD2, etc.). He gave me the names of a few artists he thought I’d like. Because Internet here is crazy expensive (they charge you by the information used, not just the time that you’re on, which is why video-skyping isn’t really realistic), I haven’t had a chance to download any of it. But if you’re interested in checking out some real South African hip-hop from a reputable source, look up: Buckshot LeFonque, 340ML, Tumi & the Volume, and MC Zac. If you do, please let me know how it is and what you think! I’d love to live vicariously through your ears.

south african night out

So up until now, we’ve been eating at burger joints, an Indian vegetarian hole-in-the-wall, a cafeteria in the dorm, and on a bus with packed lunches. But finally last night I (along with over 140 American students) and had authentic South African food! We took over the whole restaurant. A live band also played for us, as three dark-skinned African princesses/goddesses/superheroes sang and danced up front. All with enormous smiles, gospel voices, and record-speed-moving-hips. We eventually joined in dancing below them, and they called people up to the stage for a minute of fame. One of which I was afforded (which means pushed on stage with a lot of resistance), and probably embarrassed myself during. But of course it was really fun. Most of the bars and clubs play American music, so it was refreshing to hear live African music. Plus, I was happily surprised with the fact that more than half of us were up and dancing at one point. There were even some white dudes getting down.

After, we went to this place called Long Street. It reminded me a lot of Bourbon Street in New Orleans because it’s just a line of bars, clubs, and restaurants with balconies that overlook it and go on forever.

Unlike Bourbon Street:
Negative differences: cars are allowed in the streets, there’s no open bottle policy, and no strip clubs.
Positive differences: everything is cheaper, the balconies are part of the bars so they’re open to everyone not just old people who buy expensive hotel rooms, way more diverse (referring to the types of bars as well as the types of people), people can dance better, there aren’t as many sketchy old guys looking for young girls to flash them (though there are probably still a few), there are no strip clubs.

Weirdness of the night: On my way back, before I got in a cab with some friends, a beggar with one leg approached asking for money. When I made it clear I wasn’t going to give him any, he came maybe a half an inch away from my ear and said, “You make me crazy baby, have my baby, baby.” We then quickly entered the cab, and driving away, saw him following his next target, I’m sure with the intention of saying the same thing. So if you're looking for a new pick up line, I’d take that one out for a spin.

Today we went to the opening soccer game at the new stadium. It ended 0-0, and then 5-6 for penalty shots. Pretty sloppy players. REALLY nice venue.

volunteering

We went around to different places we could volunteer. I'm thinking about working at this school where I make a class curriculum and teach twice a week, but it might conflict with my classes, so we’ll see.

We drove by the townships in the poorest and most dense area of the Western Cape. They consist of these shacks that are completely piled on top of each other, maybe the size of a bathroom, shakily made out of ribbed metal. The space is cramped and looks like a sea of color that goes on for miles. One of the interesting things about them is how they turn them into self-contained communities. One of these shacks will have a free wall and functions as a barbershop. Another area is a car wash (though I saw only two beat up cars the whole way). The other thing I thought was remarkable was the ways people made these spaces their own, and special despite the extreme poverty they live in. The shacks are painted hot pink and turquoise, and some of the walls are painted with great graffiti art.

When we got back I swam in a pool that’s just 15 feet away from the dorm we’re staying in for the time being and chilled in the sun. They’ve warned us multiple times about the disparity in Cape Town. A fifteen-minute drive takes you from one extreme end of the spectrum to the other. I’m definitely already starting to feel guilty for the privileges and luxuries I’m afforded here, as well as in America.

Highlights of the day: the kids! I climbed the best climbing-tree ever with a band of small African children who were more than a little familiar with the ropes. I then played with a girl that refused to let me stop throwing her into the air. Very classically, she would squeal just as loud the 22nd time I threw her as the 1st. Later a group of four young kids (guesstimated ages: 5, 6, 8, and 14) danced provocatively to Sweet Dreams by Beyonce while the oldest one sang it with mangled words. When I told them it was better than the pop star her self, the youngest girl’s jaw literally dropped with shock and proud joy.

scavenger

The CIEE (the program I’m on) orientation made us do a scavenger hunt around the campus today (which I of course did dragging my flip-flop-donned-feet) but it gave me an excuse to soak up the area. As you continuously walk up and up towards the campus, you go through an underpass, with walls covered in murals. Then out of the darkness of the tunnel you come out onto the most beautiful view of upper campus and Table Mountain. The campus is massive, and every corner you turn unveils a beautiful view of the city below, or a staircase with a arc over it where birds fly through, or a castle-like structure covered in ivy, and all of it is fore-grounded with palm trees.

Highlight of the day: besides the views, I loved hanging out in this great café with free (but very limited bandwith) wifi. I got my first chance—after a relatively painful four days or so to go on the computer. There is a list of crushed-iced smoothie/frappiccino-style drinks that all look delicious. I have my eyes on the mango-mint. I’ll let you know how that goes.

safe and sound

The visa got all sorted out (Thank you, father) and I got here okay. The flight was long (to say the least). But I’m here and therefore thrilled. Of course, despite my drowsiness, I went to a couple of bars right down the road. The South Africans were very friendly and the people on the program definitely seem nice and fun enough. Plus, it’s warm enough to wear shorts at night. Off to a good start.

prospective followers:

this is (obviously) the first entry to a diary-esque blog about my semester in south africa. so this seems like the easiest/cheapest way to let anyone who's interested know what's going on in my life. if all goes well with the visa, i should be leaving on the 18th. so consider this just a welcome mat to more to come soon. hopefully not be my first and only post. can't wait to have more exciting things--as in something--to say.

((a ms. rachel leit told me she was expecting this. she was also used as a scattegories answer by my mom to the prompt: "things that are bright," who argued--to no avail--that it worked on multiple levels and she should therefore get two points. so, in honor of your brightness on both levels, this is dedicated to you.))